I've always wanted
Project Runway, which wields the word "costumey" around in the same dread way that
American Idol invokes "broadway", to embrace costume design and hold a movie themed episode. Now that they're located in LA, they finally came through for me.
The designers at a real soundstage, hearing the challenge. For the record I'm:
rooting for CarolHannah, drooling on Logan and expecting a Christopher win.
If you've seen the show, you'll know that Heidi Klum always kicks things off by wrapping that brilliant accent around a happy preview of the episode's content. To hear her chirpily declare
"movie making!" before the ADD editing team cut to the challenge was bliss in 4 syllables. Unfortunately many of the costumes weren't bliss in 4 seconds.
The contestants had to fight over the following five genres (only two people to a genre)
- Film Noir
- Period Piece
- Western (nobody wanted it!)
- Action / Adventure
- Science Fiction
And, yes, I was terribly disappointed that my favorite genre
Women Who Lie To Themselves was not represented. What?! That's
totally a genre! It's a genre in my DVD library at least. But seriously, I really think they should have nixed Period Piece, which was way too broad, and thrown in
Musical for a good cross section of movie genres that bring costumes too mind.
Ra'mon, the one who previously
loved Lindsay Lohan too much, enthusiastically expressed his devotion to Science Fiction, stating
I grew up watching sci-fi. I know all about Star Trek and Star Wars and everything inbetween
What exactly is
inbetween them...
Space: 1999? Chronologically it is at least.
But listen, I knew Ra'mon was in trouble the second he name-checked those two franchises since even a blind person would reference them if sci-fi came up. Fashion designers can't be blind. If you're a fashion designer referencing sci-fi, you're doomed if
Blade Runner isn't the iconic film that pops into their mind. Especially if you've opted to design a snake-woman jumpsuit as Ramon did. I'm convinced that if Ramon had only thought "Joanna Cassidy as 'Zhora'" rather than "reptile woman" he would not have been Auf'ed at the end of this episode.
But back to the movies.
I've said it before and I'll preach it again: the Academy's costume design branch
not nominating
Blade Runner (1982) is the single stupidest decision they've made in my lifetime. The second stupidest might be the
Far From Heaven (2002) snub. I can't breathe when I think of those two films for all the WOW that's happening.
Let's look at the other designs and the sometimes strange notions these designers had about the movies. Let's start with Film Noir.
Louise's design (40s meets 20s) and Althea's design
Both designs remind us of film noir NOT AT ALL. They definitely don't scream femme fatale. Althea's is pretty but uninspiring and Louise's "convoluted mess" pushes her into the bottom three.
Louise, who I sometimes think is trying to steal Karina Longworth's look, picked the most delicious genre and then totally messed it up by going for a story about a girl in the 40s attending a costume party as a girl from the 20s.
In a consultation viewable only on
Runway's official site, Louise tries to explain this character, an aspiring actress who is eager to escape her mother, to the always wise Tim Gunn. He says "This isn't Vida from
Mildred Pierce is it?" Much to my horror Louise laughs, shrugging, "I don't even know who that is"
Let this be a lesson to everyone:
Movie ignorance is dangerous. It hurts us all. It can even ruin your chances to win a reality television competition! For,
if a fashion designer such as Louise was familiar with the great
Mildred Pierce they'd never make clothes this boring when assigned Film Noir as theme.
Am I right or am I right?
Action/Adventure yields the dullest results, just think
Angelina Jolie in both
Mrs & Mrs Smith and
Tomb Raider, d
one and zzz. Period Piece offers up a split result that's quite telling: one designer goes for technically accomplished but sometimes unexciting accuracy, the other opts for something stylized, ahistorical and purely 'character' focused; and isn't that the way Hollywood's costume designers actually split when it comes in Period Pieces in general?
As for Western, the genre that has as much trouble staying popular as the Musical, we have mixed results. The saloon girl is expected.
Epperson's design, however, once he gets past the notion of The Western =
John Wayne, is cool. He goes for a tough frontierwoman (far left above) and it's nicely imagined, both period and fantastically modern in a way I haven't seen since, well, that awesome jacket that Ben Foster strutted around in in
3:10 to Yuma (see
previous post).
Here's the winning design and its hilariously convoluted concept.
I love it but I'm less shocked by the idea of a snowy villain in white than the judges seem to be. Hallo, Tilda Swinton in
The Chronicles of Narnia. Not that long ago.
My favorite part of this episode was the chance to hear from
Arianne Phillips. If you haven't read her
recent profile in NY Times, I'd head right over to it. She's a fascinating Madonna-influencing woman and one of the best costume designers going. Consider her filmography:
Hedwig and the Angry Inch, The People Vs. Larry Flynt, 3:10 to Yuma, Walk the Line and the upcoming eye candy fest A Single Man.It came as no surprise to me that Arianne was also an incisive and thoughtful judge. Listening to her thoughts on how fabric reads for the camera, the importance of multiple flattering angles and compatible creativity from the makeup department, I felt like I was attending a Costume 101 class. I was hot for teacher.
School me Arianne. Give me loads of homework.
*
NO I don't understand the casting of 23 year old Evan Rachel Wood as 34 year old Kate Winslet's nasty ungrateful daughter Veda at all. Aren't they too old and too young for their roles respectively, thus compounding the problem? Believable mother daughter chemistry won't be as important as usual since they're at odds, but still. Not sure I follow this. Plus, I've been aching for Evan Rachel Wood to get out of her bad girl rut. She has more range than this (or at least she once did).
Kate in her Emmy winning* role as Mildred Pierce.
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